Copper Bead Caps and Links

June 4th, 2009 WendyLee

Have you looked at all the gorgeous copper bead caps around that have been etched with lovely designs and wish you could make these things yourself? I bet the one thing that stops you is lack of money to buy a nice disc cutter to cut those circles out. You wouldn’t want to hand saw them, my hands just cramp at the thought of it.

Well I was wandering the aisles of my local Bunnings (hardware shop) just because I find inspiration and some great tools down there and I came across this….

What are they I hear you say? Well its a multi pack of copper washers in various sizes.
I nearly jumped up and down right there in the aisle as I thought they would be perfect for bead caps, links and various other things that were currently running through my head.

These copper washers start at 14 mm ouside diameter and go up to 25 mm outside diameter. They are about 1.5 mm thick which makes them great for etching.

As these are pure copper they work like any other copper you have used. Patina them up for an antique look and turn them into necklace links. Dome them so they fit ont he ends of beads as bead caps, etch them for interesting patterns. Hammer them with a ball pien hammer for those gorgeous dimples.

The pack that I got had 110 pieces in the pack and they were really cheap. I had a search on ebay and there are so many different packs available to you if you do not have a hardware shop handy to you!

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Etching Metal Upside down?

November 22nd, 2008 WendyLee

In all the tutorials I have read about etching it says to place your metal piece being etched upside down. You can do this by using masking tape, sponges, styrofoam the list of flotation devices goes on.

Surely you didn;’t have to be so technical when etching, Couldn’t you just place the metal in the Ferric choride and walk away leaving it to work its magic. Upon your return you have a beautifully etched piece? Well you can do it this way and you get deposits of metal on the piece being etched. Now all the instructions tell you this is wrong and this is NOT what you want. BUTTTTTT I quite like it. The appearance is very antique.

The pictures below are of a piece of Brass that I etched in Ferric Chloride, the resist was PNP paper. I just left the metal in the bottom of the tray face up. The solution that I used was an old solution in which copper, brass and nickel silver had been etched in previously. The piece has deposits of copper and who knows what else is on it. The colours are some gorgeous greens and coppers. I added nothing to the plate after it came out these colurs have occurred naturally after sitting on the becnch for a day being exposed to the air.

I have lightly sanded the etched pattern to show the contrast.

Whilst etching like this is not going to suit all your projects I think it does have its place and can create some very interesting reactions. I should also point out that I don;t think this reaction is solely due to an old solution being used. As I have used old solutions many times over but have placed the piece upside down and have not had any deposits on the metal.

I would love to see if anyone else has etched like this and the interesting reactions they have achieved

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Etching Nickel Silver

November 16th, 2008 WendyLee

These two pieces are etched Nickel Silver . I etched them using the Battery and Salt water solution.
The resist I used was the PNP paper.
You will see on the floral one that the image is a little blotchy this was becasue the resist had started to wear away. I don’t think it had properly adhered to the metal. Possible reasons for this occuring could be that I didn’t Iron the PNP paper enough and or that my surface was not 100% clean before I put the image on the metal.

I still need to do some more work on these pieces like shape them as you can see they are not very round at the moment. They also need some more polishing.Order Superman
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Shibuichi – Etching

November 9th, 2008 WendyLee

Here is a sample of the shibuichi 25% that I etched using the Battery and saltwater method. I wasn’t sure how this would work as it has 25% silver in the metal. To my suprise it did work. I used PNP paper as a resist, the etch was a little rustic and not as clean and sharp as I got on the copper.

The etching did take a little longer then the copper pieces, I am assuming this was due to the silver content.

I think once this piece is cleaned up and patinaed then I think it will look alot better. If I manage to get some blues onto it than I think it will add to the rustic feel of the piece.

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More Etching Samples

November 5th, 2008 WendyLee

I had another play with the battery and salt water solution and have these two samples that I am in the process of cleaning up.

After finetuning the technique and working with a new salt water solution, I am happy with the fact the background is smooth, just like etching with the ferric chloride. The lines and detail are alot crisper compared to my first trial.

These pieces will be pendants when I am finished with them, I am think I will set some stones in the centre of them and perhaps dome them as well. Will need to play with them more this weekend.

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Need MORE power – Pump it up

November 2nd, 2008 WendyLee

Ok first of all one of my weaknesses is that I am impatient and the second is I am stubborn. I guess you could say I am a true Leo.
After my initial experiments with etching with a saltwater solution and a D cell Battery I decided it all moved a little to slow for me. I didn;t have a larger battery on hand but i did have my rectifier (or Power Supply).

This is my little “Power Station” I use it for anodising titanium, electroforming and NOW etching…..

I thought that my giving it a little more power then then D cell battery it would etch quicker. Guess what I was right but it went a little to well!

I hooked it all up to the power supply the positive to the anode and the negative to the cathode and turned on the power a little at a time. mmmmmm, it bubbled just like it did with the battery so I knew it was working. Left it for 15 minutes and came back to check it, still bubbling away. Good Sign…No smoke, nor flames. Another good sign!

Turned off the power and pulled out the copper piece to look at and it was etching along nicely was get a nice deep etch, although the background etch looked bumpy, kind of like it had been hammered with a ball pien hammer. I decided I wanted it a little deeper and put it all back in the solution and turned the power back on.

At this point I know you are all waiting for somthing really bad to happen. Wellll, I got absorbed in doing somthing else and left it a little longer then I wanted to. Well the etch was really deep! Can you see the hole in the top right hand corner where it etched all the way through…LOL… This occurred because I either left it to long or I had the power up to high.

I decided to give it another go and watch it more closely, the etch was nice and deep, although I still don’t think I had the voltage correct as it apeared to etch away some of the resist. I still got that nice hammered look background though, even though it looks rough it it rather smooth.

This is where that stubborn streak in me comes out as I was not giving up. So I decided to give it another go, this time lowering the voltage. Etch came out nice and deep, lines are well defined, no holes in it (LOL) and I still got the lovely hammered look.

So all up I decided I had had a successful day of experimenting, learning what to do and what NOT to do. Playing with power is alot more trickier then playing with the acids when etching and the etch does not appear to be as clean. I think this has more to do with me rather then the technique as such and I need to experiment with it alot further. Luckily copper is very cheap medium to play and experiment with.

So I think its back to the drawing board for this mad scientist!

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Only Copper

November 1st, 2008 WendyLee

Using the Saltwater and D cell battery to etch you can use other metals then just Copper.

I experimented with the following metals and worked successfully.

*Copper
*Brass (does appear to take longer, the brass I was using was print making quality brass but the definition was far better then the copper)
*Nickel Silver Looks like sterling silver when polished but does not have the price tag attached to it and iis easily ethed in solutions that you cannot etch Sterling silve rin.
*Gilding Metal As this is a brass based alloy it had the same effect as etching brass and took just as long!
* Shibuichi I have a piece currently in the solution now of Shibuichi. It will be interesting to see how successful this is. The shibuichi I am using is 25%. So I don’t knwo how the 25% of silver with affect the etching process if it does at all. Will let you all know How I go with some photos!

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Etching Metal With a Battery

October 31st, 2008 WendyLee

I received my latest edition of Art Jewelry magazine and read with enthusiasm an article on etching metal with a D cell battery and saltwater. The article was written by Ron Pascho. I was at first a bit insure surely it can;t be that easy. So the mad scientist in me just had to give it a try.

My initial thoughts were to be correct its not that easy. Have you ever tried to find Pure Salt! My local area does not appear to have many food preservers and there doesn;t appear to be a demand for Kosher Salt. If you actually read the packets of salt you will see that the majority of the salt packets have an anti caking aagent added to them. I could pick up pure salt from my local Bunnings but the 25kg sack that they had for sale appeared to be a little excessive. But for those of you who have a need for a sack this big it was in the pool section. I eventually found some salt at a coles who has a large selection of kosher foods.

The rest of the stuff I needed was easily purchased at Jaycar. The battery holder, leads, D cell battery. They also sell the PNP Blue paper for transferring the images onto the metal. ( I already had this at home) I recommend you shop at Jaycar if you need to purchase the lot as they had everything. Dick Smith and other electronic places did not sell the PNP paper.

So all excited with all my new purchases I headed home ready to play. I was very excited about this tutorial as it has been a long time since I have played just for the the sake of playing and experimenting.

I am not going to go into the detailed setup or the making of the solution, I really recommend you purchase the magazine as it is a fantastic issue. Its the November Issue of Art Jewelry Magazine with Deb Karash’s stunning floral pendant on the front.

Above is the set up that I used. The piece that I was etching was a piece of copper that I had transferred the image onto the metal with PNP Blue paper. I love this stuff, I have not had many problems with it although the occasional glitch when I first started working with. I will go into these later in another post.

This is the solution looking all murky and yucky after a hard days etching.

Ok now I bet you want to see my results. Wellll, the whole procedure worked, it did etch the metal although I did find the process a little slow and the definition was not as good as when etching with Ferric Chloride in which I am able to get very sharp crisp lines.


The problem with this piece was that firstly the transfer was not complete on the copper, this was because I rushed the part where I transferred the image onto the copper as I was anxious to get etching.

The second attempt I chose a deisgn that was more solid in design and not so many fine lines. It worked!!!!!!!, The etch was deeper and there was more definition in the lines.

Overall I was happy with the tutorial and the experimenting that I did, I think this is a great way to set up Etching at home without the use of yucky chemicals. Although I did find this method a little slow. If you use a bigger battery and gave it more juice it would work quicker. Stay tuned for the reults when I rigged up the seup to the rectifier to make it etch faster!

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Stazon Stamp Ink pad as a resist

October 6th, 2008 WendyLee

I have used the stazon inkpads as a resist for etching for various other materials and methods and wanted to see if these same resists I had used in the past worked differently with the Salt water method of etching.

For this experiment I used the Black Stazon ink pad. These are a permanent ink and are readily available in scrapbooking and some craft shops.

The stamp is placed in the ink and pressed onto the metal. In this instance I am using Nickel Silver. Wait until the ink has fully dried before you place the piece in the solution. Now is also the time before it dries to alter the image in any way.

Once the ink has dried you can follow the same steps for etching using the Salt water and the D cell battery. Due tot he fact that this design had fine lines and was very intricate I checked the piece every 10 minutes. I wanted to moniter firstly how deep the etch could go and also how long it could stay in the solution before the resist started to wear away.

The image came out but its not a very deep etch. I will have to have another play with the stazon ink and perhaps use a design that has heavier lines and perhaps not so detailed.

This has yet to be cleaned up some more and I think the detail will show up alot more if I patina it or use Liver of sulphur.

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